Aechmea: Planting, Cultivation, and Maintenance

Botany

The Aechmea is a stemless plant, originating from the tropical and subtropical forests of South America. It is actually a genus of plants that belongs to the Bromeliaceae family, just like the pineapple, the Guzmania, and the Tillandsia. Most members of this botanical family grow as epiphytes, clinging to the barks of trees. They feed on decomposing leaves and excrement that accumulate in the crevices of trunks, thanks to their aerial root system. As for rainwater, it collects between the gutter-like leaves that form a cup-shaped reservoir. These plants therefore require humidity and moderate light to recreate their natural environment. Species in this Bromeliaceae family also have the particularity of taking many years to flower. And, after the long-lasting flowering, the leaf rosette dies, but not without producing shoots at its base, which allow the plant to persist.

In its natural habitat, the Aechmea is an epiphytic plant that grows on the trunk of trees

From an etymological point of view, the term “Aechmea” derives from the Greek “akmê” meaning peak or spearhead, which likely refers to the very pointed tips of the flowers’ calyces.

The genus Aechmea includes over 250 different species, some of which are commonly cultivated as indoor plants in our climates. Starting with Aechmea fasciata (syn. Billbergia fasciata), commonly known as Silver Vase, the most widespread, with its fleshy and broad foliage, which flowers in light pink to carnation pink. In stores, one can also find Aechmea fulgens with dark green leaves, punctuated with greyish reflections, and spike inflorescences. The species Aechmea tayoensis, native to Ecuador and Peru, offers single, linear leaves with serrated edges, strongly veined in brown. Its inflorescence consists of orange-red bracts and yellow flowers. The species Aechmea chantinii also arouses interest with its bright green foliage transversely striped with dark green or grey and its inflorescences with red or orange bracts, adorned with red flowers. To this multitude of species, numerous cultivars are added to broaden the range of foliage and flowering.

The Aechmea offers rosettes of very varied foliage depending on the species

The Aechmea is therefore a herbaceous, epiphytic, and stemless plant, with tough, rigid, and very broad foliage. Some leaves with rounded tips can reach 10 cm in width. These leaves, curved and denticulate on the edges, are gathered in a rosette. Tightly imbricated into each other, in a spiral, the leaves form a sort of cylinder which, in nature, allows them to store rainwater or dew. The leaves of some Aechmea species are covered with a grey bloom made of scales, which disappears upon contact or by spraying with hard water.

After a few years, a unique inflorescence emerges from the rosette, resembling a floral spike, consisting of numerous bracts, which can last for at least six months, and small flowers, varying in color depending on the species. These flowers evolve during the flowering period, but live only a short time. As with most Bromeliads, this flowering is a symbol of death for the rosette. Knowing that the “agony” can still last a year.

Flowers of various Aechmea species

Nevertheless, the plant ensures its continuity with the development of shoots at the base. By allowing their root system to develop minimally, it is then possible to cultivate them separately. But it will take many years before a new inflorescence appears, provided it is placed in a very bright atmosphere, with high humidity. However, the foliage offers undeniable ornamental interest.

Due to its cultural needs and spiny appearance, the Aechmea is cultivated alone in a pot. In stores, Aechmeas are generally purchased already in flower.

Several species to discover

How to Plant an Aechmea?

When to Plant Aechmea?

As an indoor plant, Aechmea can be planted at any time of the year.

How to Plant It?

As a reminder, Aechmea is an epiphytic plant, so it requires a substrate suited to its needs. This substrate should be light and as porous as possible, slightly acidic, and provided in small quantities. Indeed, Aechmea prefers to be confined in a narrow pot, almost to the point of the plant’s stability, and it must be perfectly drained, to a good depth.

Thus, Aechmea can be planted in special orchid compost, or in a mix of heather soil, leaf mould and sand. A mix of pine bark, sphagnum moss and coconut or wood fibres may also be suitable for Aechmea.

• Choose a small container, as Aechmea has very shallow roots and prefers to be snug. The pot must have drainage holes
• Add a layer of sand or gravel at the bottom of the pot
• Gently remove the Aechmea from its current pot and slightly loosen the roots
• Place the root ball in the pot, taking care not to damage the roots
• Fill with the substrate
• Lightly firm down and water.

Where to Place It?

Aechmea requires moderate light, with direct sunlight being detrimental. Species and varieties with variegated foliage may require a bit more light, though not bright.

However, as Aechmea is quite sensitive to cold, it requires a minimum temperature of 13°C. Ideally, during winter, this plant should be placed in a bright room or a conservatory, with temperatures ranging between 16 and 18°C. It should never be placed near a heat source. Throughout the rest of the year, it can tolerate the slightly dry atmosphere of our homes, though a minimum level of humidity should be maintained.

It is also sensitive to cold draughts.

Aechmea can spend the summer outdoors, in the garden. Make sure to place it in the shade of a deciduous tree, and do not forget to water it.

How to Care for Aechmea?

To maintain a healthy Aechmea, minimal care is required. Watering is essential.

Watering

Watering should be regular in summer, twice a week, and less frequent in winter. These waterings should be moderate, as the plant’s weak root system does not allow for rapid absorption of water. Consequently, this plant, like many Bromeliads, is susceptible to collar rot when it is in contact with overly moist substrate. Therefore, it is necessary to water regularly but in small amounts. It is also crucial to remove any residual water in the saucer or decorative pot. In winter, wait for the substrate to be completely dry between waterings.

It is also possible to keep the leaf cylinder filled with rainwater, to recreate the plant’s natural living conditions, provided that the collar remains dry. Alternatively, you can occasionally mist the leaves with non-lime water. However, never rub the leaves with a cloth or sponge, as this could damage the surface tissues.

Watering must always be done with non-lime water at room temperature. Rainwater is perfect, but demineralised water can also be used. The plant would not tolerate internal and external moisture.

Fertilisation

You may optionally apply a special orchid fertiliser once a month to extend the flowering period, from March to October.

Repotting

As the rosette dies at the end of the flowering, repotting is unnecessary. However, you can replant offshoots to propagate the plant.

Pruning

Aechmea does not require pruning. However, it is necessary to cut the flower stalk at the base once it has faded. This action will encourage the development of offshoots.

How to Propagate Aechmea?

The propagation of Aechmea occurs when the rosette has died. If your Aechmea has produced offshoots at the base, it is possible to repot them. Allow them time to properly develop their rudimentary roots before cultivating them separately, at a temperature of at least 18°C, away from direct sunlight, and with moderate watering. The offshoots are removed by detaching them from the mother rosette.

If the offshoots do not have sufficient roots, they will be treated as cuttings. They should therefore be planted in buckets filled with a very light substrate that is barely moist.

Diseases and Pests of the Aechmea

The main issue that Aechmea can face is the rotting of roots and the collar. The leaves rot at the base, detach, and fall off. The roots, which are underdeveloped, also rot. The young plant appears unbalanced and falls over. These symptoms are especially common in autumn and winter. Simply reduce watering and always empty the saucer.

In terms of parasitic problems, Aechmea is susceptible to attacks by mealybugs and woolly aphids. I invite you to learn how to identify and treat them in these two articles: Mealybug: Identification and Treatment and Aphid: Identification and Treatment.

How to Pair an Aechmea in an Interior Setting?

The Aechmea, a plant of many facets, elegantly integrates into numerous decorative styles. Its graphic habit makes it a valuable addition to modern and minimalist interiors. Pair it with straight lines and raw materials such as resin or metal for a striking contrast. The company of Sansevieria trifasciata or “mother-in-law’s tongue”, with its stiff and graphic leaves, will create an interesting contrast with the Aechmea.

For a more bohemian style, opt for macramé or wicker baskets to hang your Aechmea. You can pair it with Tillandsias, these air plants that you could attach to pieces of driftwood to add a natural touch. Ferns with their delicate fronds, held in wicker cache-pots, can counterbalance the rigidity of the Aechmea.

In a tropical interior, the Aechmea will find its place among other green plants and exotic patterns. It will particularly thrive in the company of other plants from the Bromeliad family, sharing the same cultural needs. Thus, a pineapple plant, a Guzmania or a Neoregelia will bring that exotic touch to an interior furnished with rattan or bamboo.