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Hyacinthus Delft Blue - Garden Hyacinth
Hyacinthus Delft Blue - Garden Hyacinth
Hyacinthus Delft Blue - Garden Hyacinth
Only one of the three bulbs has flowered properly. Very disappointed.
Brigitte, 02/02/2021
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Dispatch by letter from €3.90.
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This plant carries a 6 months recovery warranty
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We guarantee the quality of our plants for a full growing cycle, and will replace at our expense any plant that fails to recover under normal climatic and planting conditions.
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The Hyacinthus orientalis or Delft Blue Hyacinth is an extremely fragrant variety, with a completely unique blue flowering, and also the easiest blue variety to force. This bulb produces dense spikes of flowers in a very bright blue colour, reminiscent of the famous Dutch pottery, carried by a curiously coloured blue-violet stem! This early variety also shows beautiful growth and shiny foliage. It has received numerous awards for its multiple qualities. At home, this bulbous plant prepared for forcing will bloom in the heart of winter, in a cool and bright room.
While the Oriental Hyacinth is no longer cultivated, this species native to the Middle East and Mediterranean regions has given rise to countless highly appreciated cultivars in gardens for their delicious spring flowering or in floristry for their suitability for forcing.Â
The 'Delft Blue' hyacinth, just like it, belongs to the family of hyacinthaceae or asparagaceae. This cultivar, dating back to 1944, is a repeatedly awarded plant, honored in England by the prestigious Royal Horticultural Society. It has a large oval bulb and forms a clump of bright green ribbon-like leaves, from which emerges, from December or January indoors, a very dark floral stem, almost midnight blue, sturdy, 20 to 30cm (8 to 12in) long, bearing numerous star-shaped flowers with a thick, waxy substance, vivid lavender blue with a slightly lighter edge, tightly packed together, exuding a sweet fragrance. The foliage is deciduous after flowering. It is at this time that the bulb, whose reserves are depleted, enters dormancy. The forcing technique consists of exposing the bulbs to cold for several weeks, starting from the end of summer, in order to lift their dormancy and induce the flowering process.
Among early bloomers, the hyacinth is one of the few bulbs with large flowers and one of the easiest to force for winter flowering. Reserve a special place for it in a very bright room, away from any heat source. Forcing at home is child's play: for example, get a narrow-necked vase, specially designed for forcing hyacinth bulbs. Fill it with water and place the bulb so that its base is level with the water. Make sure the water level always reaches the base of the bulb, but never higher. Don't hesitate to mix different species of plants suitable for this cultivation method to create original compositions: tulips, daffodils, crocuses, Greek anemones, squills, as well as branches of Japanese quinces, forsythias, apple trees, cherry trees, plum trees etc. The flowers of hyacinths are edible, raw or cooked, and have a slightly mucilaginous texture. They can be crystallised with sugar or added to fruit salads, according to taste. In the past, they were a delicacy that could be found under the name of "Candied Constantinople Hyacinths". The 'Delft Blue' hyacinth will be superb in the company of the 'Fondant' variety (soft pink) or 'Jan Bos' variety (raspberry, red).
Hyacinthus Delft Blue - Garden Hyacinth in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
For the forcing of hyacinth bulbs, it is highly recommended to obtain new bulbs cultivated specifically for this purpose every year.
Indeed, the bulbs are depleted by forcing, and even a period of rest after the foliage has dried out will not allow them to replenish their reserves.
However, they can be stored, once the foliage has turned yellow, in a cool place until autumn, when they can be replanted in the garden. The bulbs that are replanted will ideally flower after two years, as a season of growth in the open ground without flowering will allow them to replenish their reserves.
First method: pot culture:
Upon receiving your bulbs, choose an attractive container with a drainage hole (pot, planter...), the height of which should be at least twice the height of the bulbs. Place a layer of gravel at the bottom, then a mixture of soil or horticultural compost mixed with sand or a ready-to-use hyacinth mixture. The substrate should be light and porous, a mixture of 2/3 garden soil and 1/3 sand works well.
The bulbs should be planted close together but should not touch each other, and the soil should cover them by 10 cm (4in).
Place the pots outside in the garden or on a balcony.
When the bulb sprouts, bring the pot indoors and place it in a dark and cool place for a period of four days to one week. Once the sprout reaches a height of eight to ten centimetres, move the pot inside the house. It is advisable to allow for an adjustment period by placing it first in a slightly cool and bright room before installing it in a heated room, near a window in the living room for example, while regularly turning the pot to prevent the twisting of the flower spike.
Second method: carafe culture:
In stores, forcing carafes or hyacinth carafes can be found, but it is possible to use a small vase, a jar, or any other transparent glass container with a diameter that matches the diameter of the bulb. In this case, the growing medium is water.
Place a piece of charcoal at the bottom of the carafe to prevent rotting and putrefaction of the water.
Place the bulb in the carafe with the tip facing upwards.
Pour water into the carafe so that it reaches the base of the bulb without actually touching it, leaving 1 or 2 millimeters between the surface of the water and the base of the bulb.
Place everything outside or in a cool, frost-free place.
Maintain the water level at the base of the bulb meticulously. The roots develop at the base, as well as small shoots at the top of the bulb.
When the shoot measures approximately 8 centimetres (3 inches), the carafe can be brought indoors, even in a slightly heated and well-lit room.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
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The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.